Archive for the ‘terrain’ Category


Posted: April 2, 2017 in Halo, terrain

Wow it’s been a while since I posted anything on here, and to be fair not much has happened. 

I have however been working away at the Halo: Ground Command starter set that I picked up before Christmas.  The change in scale (15mm rather than 32mm) has been a refreshing change, meaning normal infantry only need a base coat, wash, and dry brush to produce good results. 

The move over to a different scale, also means that 90% of my terrain is no good. So with an hour so each week I have started to make some new terrain, and revitalise my old realm of battle boards. It is making a nice change to make stuff from scratch rather than buying kits. 

Hopefully i can get some pictures on here at some stage.


Following on from the previous two posts, I set about making the paved areas of the new corner sections. I did run through a number of ideas but, however I went for this method.

Above are the “before” and bellow are the “after” versions.

As you can see I have filled in the areas that needed filling with 3mm Blue Styrofoam, I had a number of sheets left over from a previous project. The undamaged tile (on the left) was a simple case of cutting three pieces for the main area. However one sheet was not thick enough, so I filled the bottom with off cuts. Once I had enough pieces cut I began gluing the pieces down with a solvent free grab adhesive. Once the bottom layer was glued down, I spread some more grab adhesive over the top and the started again. This time however the curve section proved to be harder to get into place and broke, meaning I needed to cut a replacement piece.

The “damaged” tile however needed a bit more work. This time I cut three rectangles and then cut them in to individual slabs. I then laid out all the slabs and worked out where I needed to cut them. I then added some broken bits of pipe behind the curb stones (which will allow me to add some water effects to a couple of the craters. When it come round to gluing the slabs in place I tried to make them look uneven with their spacing.

To help the grab adhesive set I placed a sheet of paper and a number of heavy books on to of the tiles. When the glue is dry I can the start adding in the individual slabs on the “clean” version and the cracks on to the “damaged” version.

I have also been toying with having a tile with a wrecked vehicle fixed to it. I have a number of “donor” vehicles that I have had for a number of years, most of which have bits missing from them.

So after converting up two of my Secret Weapon Tablescape tiles see here Part 1. I now needed to make at least 1 corner section, but in the end I made two!

Firstly these tiles are a little bit more difficult than the previous two as they both involve a fair amount of bending.

Secondly the materials are the same except for the addition of a sheet of Styrene Sheet 0.40″ (1.0mm) thick.

And Finally if you are going to convert your tiles plan it out first!

So first up is the “Damaged” corner.

This was the second corner that I made, but this one was the easiest of the two. It started life as the “loading bays”  from Part 1 (this time made right) with the addition of some scrapes left over from the “clean” version. The only difference is the curb stones were bent into shape with the aid of some boiling water, due to their sorter length.

Next is the “Clean” corner.

This one was a little bit more Involved than the “damaged” version and required a fair amount of setting out. It would look better if the lower right corner was curved like the other side, but if I remove that section then I will need to replace the road. I started by fixing four tiles together with the clips, and then with my wood working compass marked out the radius (you could also use anything curved that is large enough). Having marked up the tile, i took the Styrene Sheet and marked the radius onto that. I then cut the Styrene Sheet with a scalpel with a new blade (any sharp hobby knife will do), take you time and make several light cuts. Now you need to cut that radius in to a curved strip about 10mm wide, the “inside” edge does not need to be spot on a few millimeters over will be fine.Once you have cut this strip it can be glued in place with plastic glue and left to dry.

I then took a piece of Evergreen strip 196 (.188 x.188″ 4.8 x 4.8mm) and filled down one end with a round file, so the it matched the corner on the tile. Working from one end I drilled a 1mm hole though the strip, styrene sheet and the tile and inserted a pin, to act as an “anchor”. And then about every 35mm, to hold the radius in place. Once I got to the end I marked up where the cut needed to be made and marked up the curve like the other end. Before gluing it in place mark up the “joints” of the stones the same way as the dead end in part 1. Then glue in place and insert the pins to hold it in place (I left mine over night).

Now all I need to do is work out the new pavements, however this time the “damaged” version will need a little more work.


Any one who has followed this blog for sometime, will know that I picked up the Secret Weapon Tablescape tiles a few years back via their Kick starter. Since I received them, I have played a fair few games on them.

However one thing I have not done is paint them. I have many many times thought about it, however I have never got round to it for one reason or another.

However the other day while setting up a game I decided that it was time to give them a lick of paint. But before I even put any paint on the tiles I decided to convert a few of them to give me a little more variation.

If you want to have a look at the tiles look here

Part 1 and here Part 4.

The first thing I did was sort out what I have, and starting with the “damaged” tiles I had the following.

Foundation “A” large rubble pile x 2

Foundation “B” Rubble filled hole x 4

Foundation “C” Cracked pavement x 4

Straight “A” Rubble both Sides x 1

Straight “B” Damaged Pavements x 2

Straight “C” Craters on road and pavement x 3

“T” Junction Raised road x 1

“X” Junction craters x 3

Moving on to the “clean” tiles, I have

Foundation “D” Paved x 4

Foundation “E” Smooth  x 4

Straight “D” Man hole in road x 3

Straight “E” Grills on pavement x 2

“T” Junction x 2

“X” Junction x 3

“Grav” Plate x  1

Security Barrier x 1

So in total I have 40 tiles of which I use at most 20 (for a 5ft x 4ft area). Out of these I use maybe 1 out of the 6 “X” junctions, while both the “Grav” plate and the Security Barrier have never been used. This Gives me 5 tiles to work with ( I will keep 1 of each “X” junction and the barrier as they are).

Now while Mr Justin at Secret Weapon did an excellent job designing the tiles, I have always wondered why their were no corners or dead end tiles. There have been many times when I have set up the tiles and one or the other would have been ideal! So with this in mind I set about trying to figure out the best way to go about converting them up.

First up is the “Dead end” tile

I used Evergreen strip styrene 148 (.040 x .188″ 1.0 x 4.8mm) and 196 (.188 x.188″ 4.8 x 4.8mm) to recreate the curb stones between the pavements. I then lined up the “new” curb with a foundation tile and made a series of shallow cuts, which were then filed with a needle file to create the individual curb stones. For the lower section I cut each one slightly undersized to create the gaps in between them.

Next we have some Loading bays.

This one can only be described as a “moment of Madness”. As I said I have only ever used at most 1 “X” junction and the chances of me using 6 are a million to one!  This one started life as the prototype corner, however I glued the curb stones along the wrong edge! (see the left picture, they were supposed to go along the bottom edge) However all was not lost, and now it is just a different type of corner. It was made in the same way as the dead end tile, but with the addition of a broken pipe in to one of the craters (allowing me to add some water effect).

Overall I am pleased with how they have both turned out, and while the glue dries on the two corners sections I can start thinking about colours!

Over the past few weeks I have been busy with my gaming group, working on our INQ-28 campaign that we plan on running in September.

For that I have set up a new blog rather than fill this one up.

Tales From The Underhive

Any way to help with the INQ-28 games (and of coarse 40k) I decided to pick up GW’s Munitorum Armored Containers, that were released a few weeks ago.


Inside the box you get 3 containers, 9 barrels, and 12 crates, all for £30.00.

You get 3 of the same sprue, with each one containing 1 container, 3 barrels, and 4 crates. One thing that does stand out, is that the models are not covered in the Gothic overtones of the 40k universe . Meaning they could easily be used with any other Sci-Fi (or at a push modern) game. However the one let down of the set are the crates, unlike their predecessor (from the late nighties). These are open bottomed, where as the old ones could have the lids left off to revile the contents (in the form of a piece that showed various ammo clips).

Also in the box is a rules sheet, just to add that little extra into your games. And In all fairness it is something better suited to small engagements (a squad or two) rather than a full blown game.

All in all a nice little set, and provides your troops with some much needed cover!

Lets try this again, as for some reason it did not post the last time!

So the other day my DZ:I KS pledge arrived, and any one who has followed my blog for a long time will know that I was hoping for DZ to be a replacement for 40K. Alas however it was not, first off was the “restic” material that the models were made from (which has been discussed in another post). And secondly were the rules, to me they were in a mess. And no matter how many times I read them, I just could not get my head round them.

However fast forward to April 2015 and mantic announce a “mini” KS project for a 2nd edition of DZ, with the aim of “tidying up the rules”. This time round it did not generate the same amount of cash as the first DZ KS but did well enough to get some new plastic models made in the form of the Veer-Myn crawlers/stalkers and the Nightmares, enforcer pathfinders and jet bikes, Forge Farther Steel Warriors, and some new scenery. And some other metal models (some of which changed to plastic). Now I was one of the early backers but I did sit on the fence for most of the project, as I was not overly sure that it was “value” for money. However as the project came to the end I decided to stick with it! And in the end I went for the Lockdown Pledge and a few add-ons, Industrial Quadrant, Ogre Terminator, 2 sprues of Steel Warriors, and a deluxe gaming mat.

Now  a number of things changed since the end of the project, firstly some of the models (resin and metals) were changed over to a different type of plastic. And secondly the rules had gone from a few tweaks to clean them up, to a very heavy edit with lots being removed. Both of these things caused a lot of frustration with backers.

Now with my pledge arriving the other day I went through everything to check that it was their and not damaged and I have to say that Mantic have done a better job with this project than they did with the original all the bags were labelled with what they included, but some where along the lines all 3 of the Veer-Myn boosters and the Asterian booster are missing.

First up we have the new Veer Myn Nightmares (left picture) and the Night crawlers/Stalkers.

Next we have the Pathfinders (left picture) and the Jetbikes.

DSCN0923 (2)Next up we have the Forge Father Steel Warriors.

Next we have the “new” plastic models, with the plague Aberation  (left picture). And (clock wise frome top left )Blaine on jet bike, Enforcer N7-117, and the Veer-Myn piper and rat swarms.

DSCN0926Next we have the few metal models starting from top left, Ogre terminator,(Rebs) Adrienne Nikolovski,  (Marauder) Skyscraper, (Rebs) Rin Hunter/Bounty Hunter, (Rebs) Teraton Shock Trooper.

Next we have the new “industrial” terrain. Now unlike the first DZ project all the terrain is “sprue less” even down to the connectors (thank god)!

I must say that I am impressed with the quality of the models, the “new” plastic is a step up from what was supplied with Mars Attacks and is miles better than “restic”. The new terrain also gets the thumbs up and will hark back to anyone who had the old “platform” kits that were made some years ago. The quality of the “deluxe” gaming mat is also excellent, after the 4 that I received with my Mars attacks pledge where each one was darker than the first.

Now all I need is the missing Veer-Myn, and Asterian boosters and I can finish off the review

I’ve been pretty quite the last week or so, down to a throat infection which knocked me for six. It did how ever give me some time to go through my first Deadzone kick starter stuff, which has mainly been untouched since I put together the Plague models a while ago. This was mainly down to the fact that I had never worked with Mantic’s “restic” material  before. Granted I did read up about it before starting the Plague models but the results were OK, but they could have been better.

Now resting up the last few weeks has given me the time to have a look at “restic” again (especially as DZ:I was due). Now first things first “restic” is described as a mix of resin and plastic. It holds detail very well and is as strong as resin, but as light as plastic. It can be reshaped in warm water, but needs to be glued with super glue. It is however quite hard to work with, and a lot of the first DZ kickstarter models had some pretty bad mold lines. Using a file or fine sandpaper creates a “fuzzy” area that needs to be removed. Scraping it off with a knife leaves the area looking flat (which is no good on a curved armour plate). And this is why my DZ models were boxed back up, I would say 90% of them needed a lot of prep work to get them ready.

However after reading a few guides on the internet I came across a guide that mentioned using a brass wire brush (like a toothbrush). At the time it seemed like a weird idea, but I had to try it! With luck I managed to find a brass wire brush in my old spray gun cleaning kit. Now the guide said to remove as much of the mold line as possible, and then to rub the brush back and forth over the area, and as I said it sounded weird. But to my surprise it worked!

And so armed with a way to clean the models I set about cleaning up the “Rebs” faction (one of the worst offenders for mold lines) and in all it took about 3-4 hours to clean up 18 models and glue them together.

This leads nicely on to, my Deadzone: Infestaion KS pledge turned up yesterday. I’ve opened the box and had a look inside but need to sort it out to see if its all their. which I intended to do later on today……………