Archive for the ‘Cities Of Death’ Category

Following on from the previous two posts, I set about making the paved areas of the new corner sections. I did run through a number of ideas but, however I went for this method.

Above are the “before” and bellow are the “after” versions.

As you can see I have filled in the areas that needed filling with 3mm Blue Styrofoam, I had a number of sheets left over from a previous project. The undamaged tile (on the left) was a simple case of cutting three pieces for the main area. However one sheet was not thick enough, so I filled the bottom with off cuts. Once I had enough pieces cut I began gluing the pieces down with a solvent free grab adhesive. Once the bottom layer was glued down, I spread some more grab adhesive over the top and the started again. This time however the curve section proved to be harder to get into place and broke, meaning I needed to cut a replacement piece.

The “damaged” tile however needed a bit more work. This time I cut three rectangles and then cut them in to individual slabs. I then laid out all the slabs and worked out where I needed to cut them. I then added some broken bits of pipe behind the curb stones (which will allow me to add some water effects to a couple of the craters. When it come round to gluing the slabs in place I tried to make them look uneven with their spacing.

To help the grab adhesive set I placed a sheet of paper and a number of heavy books on to of the tiles. When the glue is dry I can the start adding in the individual slabs on the “clean” version and the cracks on to the “damaged” version.

I have also been toying with having a tile with a wrecked vehicle fixed to it. I have a number of “donor” vehicles that I have had for a number of years, most of which have bits missing from them.

So after converting up two of my Secret Weapon Tablescape tiles see here Part 1. I now needed to make at least 1 corner section, but in the end I made two!

Firstly these tiles are a little bit more difficult than the previous two as they both involve a fair amount of bending.

Secondly the materials are the same except for the addition of a sheet of Styrene Sheet 0.40″ (1.0mm) thick.

And Finally if you are going to convert your tiles plan it out first!

So first up is the “Damaged” corner.

This was the second corner that I made, but this one was the easiest of the two. It started life as the “loading bays”  from Part 1 (this time made right) with the addition of some scrapes left over from the “clean” version. The only difference is the curb stones were bent into shape with the aid of some boiling water, due to their sorter length.

Next is the “Clean” corner.

This one was a little bit more Involved than the “damaged” version and required a fair amount of setting out. It would look better if the lower right corner was curved like the other side, but if I remove that section then I will need to replace the road. I started by fixing four tiles together with the clips, and then with my wood working compass marked out the radius (you could also use anything curved that is large enough). Having marked up the tile, i took the Styrene Sheet and marked the radius onto that. I then cut the Styrene Sheet with a scalpel with a new blade (any sharp hobby knife will do), take you time and make several light cuts. Now you need to cut that radius in to a curved strip about 10mm wide, the “inside” edge does not need to be spot on a few millimeters over will be fine.Once you have cut this strip it can be glued in place with plastic glue and left to dry.

I then took a piece of Evergreen strip 196 (.188 x.188″ 4.8 x 4.8mm) and filled down one end with a round file, so the it matched the corner on the tile. Working from one end I drilled a 1mm hole though the strip, styrene sheet and the tile and inserted a pin, to act as an “anchor”. And then about every 35mm, to hold the radius in place. Once I got to the end I marked up where the cut needed to be made and marked up the curve like the other end. Before gluing it in place mark up the “joints” of the stones the same way as the dead end in part 1. Then glue in place and insert the pins to hold it in place (I left mine over night).

Now all I need to do is work out the new pavements, however this time the “damaged” version will need a little more work.

 

Any one who has followed this blog for sometime, will know that I picked up the Secret Weapon Tablescape tiles a few years back via their Kick starter. Since I received them, I have played a fair few games on them.

However one thing I have not done is paint them. I have many many times thought about it, however I have never got round to it for one reason or another.

However the other day while setting up a game I decided that it was time to give them a lick of paint. But before I even put any paint on the tiles I decided to convert a few of them to give me a little more variation.

If you want to have a look at the tiles look here

Part 1 and here Part 4.

The first thing I did was sort out what I have, and starting with the “damaged” tiles I had the following.

Foundation “A” large rubble pile x 2

Foundation “B” Rubble filled hole x 4

Foundation “C” Cracked pavement x 4

Straight “A” Rubble both Sides x 1

Straight “B” Damaged Pavements x 2

Straight “C” Craters on road and pavement x 3

“T” Junction Raised road x 1

“X” Junction craters x 3

Moving on to the “clean” tiles, I have

Foundation “D” Paved x 4

Foundation “E” Smooth  x 4

Straight “D” Man hole in road x 3

Straight “E” Grills on pavement x 2

“T” Junction x 2

“X” Junction x 3

“Grav” Plate x  1

Security Barrier x 1

So in total I have 40 tiles of which I use at most 20 (for a 5ft x 4ft area). Out of these I use maybe 1 out of the 6 “X” junctions, while both the “Grav” plate and the Security Barrier have never been used. This Gives me 5 tiles to work with ( I will keep 1 of each “X” junction and the barrier as they are).

Now while Mr Justin at Secret Weapon did an excellent job designing the tiles, I have always wondered why their were no corners or dead end tiles. There have been many times when I have set up the tiles and one or the other would have been ideal! So with this in mind I set about trying to figure out the best way to go about converting them up.

First up is the “Dead end” tile

I used Evergreen strip styrene 148 (.040 x .188″ 1.0 x 4.8mm) and 196 (.188 x.188″ 4.8 x 4.8mm) to recreate the curb stones between the pavements. I then lined up the “new” curb with a foundation tile and made a series of shallow cuts, which were then filed with a needle file to create the individual curb stones. For the lower section I cut each one slightly undersized to create the gaps in between them.

Next we have some Loading bays.

This one can only be described as a “moment of Madness”. As I said I have only ever used at most 1 “X” junction and the chances of me using 6 are a million to one!  This one started life as the prototype corner, however I glued the curb stones along the wrong edge! (see the left picture, they were supposed to go along the bottom edge) However all was not lost, and now it is just a different type of corner. It was made in the same way as the dead end tile, but with the addition of a broken pipe in to one of the craters (allowing me to add some water effect).

Overall I am pleased with how they have both turned out, and while the glue dries on the two corners sections I can start thinking about colours!

Over the past few weeks I have been busy with my gaming group, working on our INQ-28 campaign that we plan on running in September.

For that I have set up a new blog rather than fill this one up.

Tales From The Underhive

Any way to help with the INQ-28 games (and of coarse 40k) I decided to pick up GW’s Munitorum Armored Containers, that were released a few weeks ago.

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Inside the box you get 3 containers, 9 barrels, and 12 crates, all for £30.00.

You get 3 of the same sprue, with each one containing 1 container, 3 barrels, and 4 crates. One thing that does stand out, is that the models are not covered in the Gothic overtones of the 40k universe . Meaning they could easily be used with any other Sci-Fi (or at a push modern) game. However the one let down of the set are the crates, unlike their predecessor (from the late nighties). These are open bottomed, where as the old ones could have the lids left off to revile the contents (in the form of a piece that showed various ammo clips).

Also in the box is a rules sheet, just to add that little extra into your games. And In all fairness it is something better suited to small engagements (a squad or two) rather than a full blown game.

All in all a nice little set, and provides your troops with some much needed cover!

So GW have snuck another new game out this weekend in the form of Imperial Knights: Renegade.

 

Now I know a lot of gamers consider GW prices to be high, and IK:R is no exception. It has a hefty price tag of £120.00, but inside you will find not one but TWO Imperial Knights (RRP £85.00 for the Paladin and £95.00 for the Warden) and a Sanctum Imperialis terrain kit (RRP £20.00). So for £120.00 you get £200.00 worth of plastic kits as well as the usual dice, rules and templates.

The question is how will GW follow up with this? will we see rules for the Ork Stompa, Chaos Lord Of Skulls? Or is this the Adeptus Titanicus game that has been rumoured for sometime?

As I said in my last post “scatter” terrain for my urban set up in the form of some OOP Forgeworld pieces and the OOP CoD barricades. In total I have done 11 pieces which brake down as follows.

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The first five are the OOP Forgeworld, City Fight Barricades (left picture) and Warhammer 40000 Barricades set 2 (right picture). Its a shame that forge world stopped selling their terrain as some of it is rather nice.

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DSCN0635Then with have the Cites Of Death Urban Barricades, Which were released at the same time as the CoD book (2006). I have also spent some time working on the large cathedral that I showed back at the beginning of April see

https://grailslair.wordpress.com/2015/04/09/the-long-weekend-and-the-short-week/

As I said the model broke in half when I lifted it off its base. After replacing all the floor tiles with the sheets from the modular movement trays from GW, It made the section above the arch stronger.

DSCN0575 DSCN0576 As you can see from the above two pictures, the weak point of the arch. Also looking back at it it now the floor tiles were the wrong choice and in my eyes make it look to much like some industrial workshop.

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The new floors however make it look more like a cathedral, and have made a much stronger “join” than before. I am tempted to add a few wall sections to the back of the two towers.

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So with the 4 day weekend out of the way, what did i get up too? Well first off me and the wife played 6 games of Zombicide (mostly in the evening when their was nothing on TV).

I also started painting the Bloodthirster that I bought the other week, as well as trying out an new colour scheme for my Dark Eldar and figuring out what colours to use for my Imperial Knight!

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Over the past few weeks I have been working on a new piece for Cites Of Death, now when I say new I mean old but getting a “big” face lift!DSCN0571Now I started this model some years back (way back in 2009) and it was based on a 300 x 600mm MDF base with a 50mm polystyrene plinth (their was also going to be a rear section). Now when I started this project I bought 4 of the Shrine Of The Aquila kits as a base, of which I have used about 2. I also added in some normal CoD tiles.

However time has not been good to the model while it has been in storage, the base was damaged by water and the model had started to come away from polystyrene plinth. Also a few of the floor sections had come lose or been lost. When I got it back home I took the decision to scrap the base and re-do all the floors. Removing the model was easy as it had started to come away any way, however disaster struck as I lifted the model from the base to place it on the table. It snapped just above the arched door in the centre, due the fact that their was a join in the floor tiles and a join in the parapet running between the two towers. It did however make life easier when replacing the floors and allowed me to “bridge” the arch way wit a new all-in-one floor. I have also took the opportunity to change a few bits, like replacing the parapet and moving the replacement panels for the door ways forward.

I just need to add a few more details and it will be ready to paint!

Hopefully next week I can set up some Tablescape tiles and get some photos done.

Now back to that imperial Knight…………….

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