Take Cover Pt 2!………………..

Posted: August 18, 2016 in Cities Of Death, terrain

So after converting up two of my Secret Weapon Tablescape tiles see here Part 1. I now needed to make at least 1 corner section, but in the end I made two!

Firstly these tiles are a little bit more difficult than the previous two as they both involve a fair amount of bending.

Secondly the materials are the same except for the addition of a sheet of Styrene Sheet 0.40″ (1.0mm) thick.

And Finally if you are going to convert your tiles plan it out first!

So first up is the “Damaged” corner.

This was the second corner that I made, but this one was the easiest of the two. It started life as the “loading bays”  from Part 1 (this time made right) with the addition of some scrapes left over from the “clean” version. The only difference is the curb stones were bent into shape with the aid of some boiling water, due to their sorter length.

Next is the “Clean” corner.

This one was a little bit more Involved than the “damaged” version and required a fair amount of setting out. It would look better if the lower right corner was curved like the other side, but if I remove that section then I will need to replace the road. I started by fixing four tiles together with the clips, and then with my wood working compass marked out the radius (you could also use anything curved that is large enough). Having marked up the tile, i took the Styrene Sheet and marked the radius onto that. I then cut the Styrene Sheet with a scalpel with a new blade (any sharp hobby knife will do), take you time and make several light cuts. Now you need to cut that radius in to a curved strip about 10mm wide, the “inside” edge does not need to be spot on a few millimeters over will be fine.Once you have cut this strip it can be glued in place with plastic glue and left to dry.

I then took a piece of Evergreen strip 196 (.188 x.188″ 4.8 x 4.8mm) and filled down one end with a round file, so the it matched the corner on the tile. Working from one end I drilled a 1mm hole though the strip, styrene sheet and the tile and inserted a pin, to act as an “anchor”. And then about every 35mm, to hold the radius in place. Once I got to the end I marked up where the cut needed to be made and marked up the curve like the other end. Before gluing it in place mark up the “joints” of the stones the same way as the dead end in part 1. Then glue in place and insert the pins to hold it in place (I left mine over night).

Now all I need to do is work out the new pavements, however this time the “damaged” version will need a little more work.



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